Santa Maria del Popolo

On the corner of the square as you come through the gate, and most people walk straight past it. The Cerasi Chapel, left of the altar, has two Caravaggios facing each other — the Conversion of Saint Paul and the Crucifixion of Saint Peter. Bring a two euro coin for the light. The Chigi Chapel across the church is Raphael’s, finished by Bernini a century later. If you have read Angels and Demons by Dan Brown, you will also love this place, because an important episode of the book actually takes place there. This is a simple church compared to the most baroque churches of Rome.