ROME WITH BERT

Highlight from the guide

Villa Medici The French Academy, and its garden · Pincio The French Academy in Rome, on the shoulder of the Pincio above Piazza di Spagna. The street front gives nothing away; you come round the side and the garden façade is the one that was meant to be seen — Roman reliefs set straight into the plaster, two small towers, an obelisk and a box parterre running out in front of it. Come for the gardens rather than whatever is hanging in the rooms, and go up to the terrace at the top before you leave. Keep reading ↗ Locanda Coronari Lunch, aperitivo and dinner · Ponte My locanda — full write-up coming before shipping. Keep reading ↗ MAXXI Zaha Hadid’s Rome · Flaminio Italy’s museum of twenty-first century art, in a Zaha Hadid building put up inside an old barracks. The exhibitions change and are not always great, but the building is worth the trip on its own. Ponte Milvio is ten minutes away if you want to make an afternoon of it. Keep reading ↗

The Eternal City blog

A Promenade on the Aventino August 2026

Ask Your Coffee Like a Roman July 2026

What’s on in Rome

Exhibition Tragicomica Apr 2 – Sep 20 · MAXXI

Festival Festival des Cabanes May 20 – Sep 28 · Villa Medici

Exhibition Vitalità dell’architettura italiana 1946–2026 May 29 – Nov 15 · MAXXI

Exhibition Diego Rivera Jun 9 – Dec 13 · Musei Capitolini

Rome,
in your
pocket.

The whole guide, the map and this week’s events — on your phone.

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Coming soon.

A shortlist of the Roman icons I love and I recommend to friends and family visiting the city.

Piazza del Popolo

Campo Marzio · Piazza del Popolo

Parione · Piazza Navona

Piazza San Pietro

Vaticano · Piazza San Pietro

Basilica San Pietro

Vaticano · Piazza San Pietro

Santa Maria del Popolo

Campo Marzio · Piazza del Popolo 12

San Luigi dei Francesi

Sant’Eustachio · Piazza di San Luigi de’ Francesi

Rome has more museums than anyone can manage. These are the ones I would pick.

Flaminio · Via Guido Reni 4A

Musei Capitolini

Campidoglio · Piazza del Campidoglio 1

Vaticano · Viale Vaticano

Galleria Borghese

Pinciano · Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna

Valle Giulia · Viale delle Belle Arti 131

Pincio · Viale della Trinità dei Monti 1

Where I actually eat and drink. Nothing here is on the list because it is famous.

Locanda Coronari

Ponte · Piazza dei Coronari 1/2

Ponte · Via dei Banchi Nuovi 14

Flaminio · Piazzale Flaminio 10

Porchetteria La Rinascita

Parione · Via del Governo Vecchio 89/90

Flaminio · Viale Pinturicchio 38–42

Bookshops and beautiful objects — the places where I lose an hour and come out carrying something. And at the end, the two practical things worth having saved before you need them.

Libreria Stendhal

Sant’Eustachio · Piazza di San Luigi de’ Francesi 23

Largo di Torre Argentina · Largo di Torre Argentina 11

Sant’Eustachio · Via dei Barbieri 7

Mercatino Usato Roma Garbatella

Garbatella · Via Manfredo Camperio 25

Centro Storico · Via della Croce 70

Campo Marzio · Via della Scrofa 40

These places and experiences do not always make the usual list. They are the ones I recommend most, if you have the time.

AS Roma at the Stadio Olimpico

Foro Italico · Viale dei Gladiatori 2

Catacombe di Priscilla

Trieste · Via Salaria 430

EUR · Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana

Ostia Antica · Viale dei Romagnoli 717

Parco degli Acquedotti

Appio Claudio · Via Lemonia

Piazza della Suburra

Monti · Piazza della Suburra